Irish Setter Edgerton XD Work Boots, a Review

Maintaining a wooded property comes with its fair share of challenges, especially after a storm. Clearing brush and fallen limbs requires tools that can withstand the demands of the task while ensuring comfort and safety. Recently, I was given a pair of Irish Setter Edgerton XD work boots, style 83689, in exchange for a review, and I put them to the test this past weekend. Here’s how they performed.

First Impressions

Right out of the box, the Edgerton XD work boots make a strong impression. The 6-inch waterproof leather design promises durability, even in the roughest, toughest jobs. The all-leather upper not only looks rugged but also provides extra protection from the elements. The boots are substantial in weight, which initially made me wonder if they’d be too cumbersome for extended wear. However, I quickly discovered that their weight is a small trade-off for the support and protection they offer.

Performance in the Field

The photo above shows a pileated woodpecker in the huge and ancient eastern white pines on my property. Those pines draw in thrilling wildlife like this guy but at the same time, they shed branches like crazy as soon as the wind kicks up. 

A week ago we had a particularly gusty thunder storm roll through and it wreaked havoc on the woodland I cultivate under those pines. Clearing the downed limbs and reestablishing my paths would serve as the proving gound for these boots. The terrain that day was uneven, slippery and littered with debris; but the Edgerton XD boots handled it all without issue. The ankle support these boots provided was outstanding, giving me confidence as I navigated through the underbrush. Despite their slightly heavier build, the cushioning inside the boots rivals that of my running shoes, making them surprisingly comfortable for long periods of wear.

One of the standout features is the Vibram® Edge Fire & Ice rubber outsole, which is designed to resist extreme weather conditions. The tread pattern not only improves traction but also releases mud easily, a critical feature when working in wet and muddy conditions. The boots also meet the new ASTM slip resistance standard, which added peace of mind as I worked on slick surfaces while wielding a chainsaw.

Safety and Durability

Even though these boots feature a soft toe, I was impressed by how rigid and protective they felt. The Armatec™ heel and toe protection provide incredibly tough abrasion resistance, which was reassuring as I dragged heavy logs and moved rocks. The TPU shank increases underfoot stability, giving me the support needed to tackle uneven terrain without discomfort. The UltraDry™ waterproofing system kept my feet dry throughout the day, and the direct attach welt construction ensures these boots are built to last.

Versatility

While I don’t need to wear these boots for jobsite work, they’ve quickly become an essential part of my outdoor gear. They’re another tool in my arsenal for tackling the myriad projects needed to maintain my property. Whether it’s clearing brush, chopping wood, or even simple yard maintenance, the Edgerton XD boots provide the support and protection I need.

Final Thoughts

The Irish Setter Edgerton XD work boots exceeded my expectations in every way. They’re a bit heavier than your average work boot, but that weight translates to a level of durability and support that’s hard to beat. The combination of the Vibram® Edge Fire & Ice outsole, Armatec™ protection, and UltraDry™ waterproofing makes these boots a top choice for anyone who spends a significant amount of time outdoors, especially in rugged conditions. They’re built to last, designed for comfort, and most importantly, they provide the protection you need to get the job done.

The Edgerton XD, and all of Irish Setter's boots and shoes are available with free shipping and returns from Irish Setter's excellent website.

Disclaimer: Irish Setter provided me with a pair of Edgerton XD work boots in exchange for this review. However, all opinions expressed are my own and based on my personal experience with the product.

A majestic visitor

Last week, I experienced an exhilarating moment in my garden that I’ll never forget: I spotted a Pileated Woodpecker in the mature white pines that border my yard. This was the first time I had ever seen one of these magnificent birds in my yard, and it was a truly awe-inspiring sight.

The Thrill of the Sighting

As I was enjoying a quiet afternoon in my garden, I heard a distinctive, rhythmic drumming echoing through the trees. Intrigued, I looked up and saw a flash of black and white with a striking red crest—the unmistakable Pileated Woodpecker. My heart raced with excitement as I watched this large, beautiful bird work its way up and down the trunk of one of my tallest pines. It was an incredible experience to see such a majestic bird up close, and it felt like a special visit from nature.

Description of the Pileated Woodpecker

The Pileated Woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus) is one of the largest woodpeckers in North America, nearly the size of a crow. Its striking appearance makes it easy to identify:

• Size: About 16-19 inches in length with a wingspan of 26-30 inches.
• Color: Predominantly black with bold white stripes running down the neck and a bright red crest on the head. Males have a red stripe on their cheeks, while females do not.
• Wings: When in flight, they reveal large white underwing patches that are quite noticeable.

Behavior and Habits

Pileated Woodpeckers are known for their unique behaviors:

• Foraging: They are often seen chiseling large, rectangular holes in trees to find insects, particularly carpenter ants and beetle larvae. These holes can be so large that they sometimes create significant damage to trees.
• Drumming: Their powerful drumming is used to establish territory and attract mates. The sound is loud and resonates through the forest, making it a distinct and recognizable call.
• Nesting: They nest in cavities they excavate in dead or dying trees, and both parents are involved in raising the young.

Habitat and Range

Pileated Woodpeckers are primarily found in mature forests with large trees, but they can also be seen in wooded suburbs and parks. Their range extends across much of the eastern United States, parts of the Midwest, and the Pacific Northwest.

Distinctive Call

One of the most remarkable aspects of the Pileated Woodpecker is its call. Their vocalizations include a loud, ringing “kuk-kuk-kuk-kuk” series that can carry over long distances. This call is often compared to the sound of a maniacal laugh and is unmistakable once you’ve heard it.

A Lasting Impression

Seeing the Pileated Woodpecker in my yard was a thrilling reminder of the incredible diversity of wildlife that shares our surroundings. It was a moment that deepened my appreciation for the mature white pines in my garden and the important habitat they provide for various species. I hope this sighting is the first of many, and I’ll be keeping an ear out for that distinctive drumming and call, hoping to catch another glimpse of this magnificent bird.

If you’re fortunate enough to spot a Pileated Woodpecker in your own yard or nearby woods, take a moment to appreciate the wonder of this magnificent bird. It’s truly a special experience that highlights the beauty and diversity of nature right in our own backyards.

Celebrating a Bumper Crop of Red Currants

This year, my garden surprised me with an extraordinary bounty of red currants. One bush alone yielded an impressive eight pounds of these vibrant, tangy berries. With more red currants than I knew what to do with, I decided to turn this abundance into delicious red currant jelly. The result? A delectable treat that captures the essence of summer in every spoonful.

The Joy of Growing Red Currants

Red currants are this gardener’s delight. These small, bright berries are not only beautiful to look at but also packed with flavor and nutrients. Growing them has been a rewarding experience, from watching the tiny green berries emerge in the spring to seeing them ripen into juicy, red jewels in the summer. When I look a bush that's laden with these ruby-like fruit I'm transported to the farm in Normandy where I learned to love these little things.

This year, the conditions must have been just right — ample sunshine, the perfect amount of rain, and perhaps a bit of luck. My red currant bushes thrived like never before, producing a bumper crop that exceeded all expectations.

Harvesting the Bounty

Harvesting red currants is a labor of love. The clusters of berries are delicate and require gentle handling to avoid bruising. As I picked the currants, I couldn’t help but marvel at their brilliant color and the sheer quantity. By the end of the day, I had collected eight pounds of red currants from a single bush—an impressive feat for any gardener.

What to Do with an Abundance of Red Currants?

Faced with this abundant harvest, I pondered various ways to use the red currants. While they are delicious eaten fresh, their tartness makes them perfect for jams, jellies, and sauces. I decided to make red currant jelly, a classic preserve that allows the unique flavor of the berries to shine.

Making Red Currant Jelly

Making red currant jelly is a straightforward process that results in a stunningly vibrant and flavorful preserve. Here’s the recipe I used, which turned out to be absolutely terrific. Red currants have a lot of pectin in them naturally, so a jelly made from them sets all on its own. It's like magic.

Red Currant Jelly Recipe

Ingredients:

• 4 pounds red currants (to yield about 5 cups of juice)
• 4 cups granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup water (if needed)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Currants:

Rinse the red currants thoroughly and remove them from their stems. You don’t need to be overly meticulous, as the stems will be strained out later.

2. Cook the Currants:

Place the red currants in a large pot. If the currants are particularly dry, add 1/4 cup of water to prevent sticking.

Cook the currants over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften and release their juice. This usually takes about 10-15 minutes.

3. Extract the Juice:

Pour the cooked currants through a fine-mesh sieve or a jelly bag into a large bowl. Press down on the solids to extract as much juice as possible. You should end up with approximately 5 cups of juice.

4. Make the Jelly:

In a large pot, combine the red currant juice and granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is fully dissolved.

Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium. Continue boiling, stirring frequently, until the jelly reaches the setting point. This should take about 20-25 minutes. You can test the set by placing a small amount of jelly on a chilled plate; if it wrinkles when pushed with your finger, it’s ready.

5. Jar the Jelly:

While the jelly is cooking, sterilize your jars and lids by boiling them in water for 10 minutes.

Carefully ladle the hot jelly into the sterilized jars, leaving about 1/4 inch of headspace. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean, damp cloth, then seal with the lids.

6. Process the Jars:

Process the filled jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes to ensure a proper seal. Remove the jars from the water and let them cool completely on a towel or cooling rack.

7. Enjoy Your Jelly:

Once cooled, check the seals and store any unsealed jars in the refrigerator. Properly sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to a year.

A Sweet Conclusion

Making red currant jelly was the perfect way to celebrate my garden's bounty. The jelly’s vibrant color and tangy-sweet flavor make it a delightful addition to toast, pastries, or even savory dishes. If you find yourself with an abundance of red currants, I highly recommend giving this recipe a try. It’s a wonderful way to preserve the taste of summer and share it with friends and family throughout the year.

Beware of Cedar-Quince Rust: A Cautionary Tale

As a gardening enthusiast, I often envision our landscapes as harmonious havens where various plants coexist beautifully. However, sometimes my well-intentioned plantings can lead to unexpected and unwelcome consequences. One such example is the dreaded cedar-quince rust, a fungal disease that can wreak havoc on gardens if the right conditions are met. I recently experienced this firsthand when I mistakenly planted a quince tree next to a collection of dwarf cedars and junipers, unleashing this terrible fungus.

Understanding Cedar-Quince Rust

Cedar-quince rust (Gymnosporangium clavipes) is a fungal disease that affects a variety of plants, including quince, apple, pear, and several types of junipers and cedars. The disease requires two different host plants to complete its life cycle: a member of the rose family (such as quince) and a member of the cypress family (such as junipers and cedars). This bi-host relationship allows the fungus to spread and thrive, causing significant damage to both types of plants.

Symptoms and Impact

The signs of cedar-quince rust vary depending on the host plant:

On Quince and Other Rose Family Hosts:

• Early Spring: Look for small, yellow-orange spots on leaves, stems, and fruit.
• Late Spring to Early Summer: These spots enlarge and develop a rust-colored, powdery appearance. Infected fruit may become deformed, making it unsuitable for consumption.

On Junipers and Cedars:

• Spring: Galls (swellings) form on twigs and branches, turning bright orange and gelatinous when wet.
• Summer: The galls dry out and harden, remaining on the plant and releasing spores to infect nearby rose family hosts the following year.

The impact of cedar-quince rust can be devastating. Infected quince trees may suffer from reduced fruit yield and quality, while junipers and cedars can experience stunted growth and dieback of affected branches. The aesthetic value of both types of plants is also compromised, diminishing the overall beauty of the garden.

My Experience

In my eagerness to create a diverse and visually appealing garden bed, I planted a quince tree next to a collection of dwarf cedars and junipers. Unbeknownst to me, this combination was a recipe for disaster. Within a season, I noticed the telltale signs of cedar-quince rust: orange spots on the quince tree's leaves and fruit, and strange galls on the junipers. Despite my best efforts to manage the outbreak, the fungus spread rapidly, causing significant damage to both the quince tree and the surrounding evergreens.

Prevention and Management

Preventing cedar-quince rust requires careful planning and proactive measures:

• Avoid Susceptible Plant Combinations: Do not plant rose family hosts (quince, apple, pear) near junipers and cedars. If space is limited, choose disease-resistant varieties.
• Prune and Destroy Infected Parts: Remove and destroy any infected leaves, fruit, and branches from both types of plants to reduce the spread of spores.
• Fungicides: Apply fungicides labeled for cedar-quince rust as a preventive measure, especially during the early spring when the fungus is most active. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
• Improve Air Circulation: Ensure adequate spacing between plants to promote air circulation, which helps reduce the humidity that fosters fungal growth.
• Regular Monitoring: Regularly inspect your plants for signs of rust and take action at the first indication of infection.

Cedar-quince rust is a formidable foe for gardeners, but with knowledge and vigilance, it can be managed and prevented. My experience serves as a cautionary tale: always research the compatibility of plants before introducing them to your garden. By understanding the dynamics of plant diseases and taking proactive steps, you can maintain a healthy, vibrant garden free from the ravages of cedar-quince rust. Happy gardening!

Fixing an accidentally cut landscape wire

I love my landscape lighting. Most of the trees in my backyard are lit with uplights and it looks fantastic.

However, about a week ago I was moving some peonies to make room for a new perennial garden and I sliced though one of the line current wires that supplies my lighting system. I'd never done it before and since it was a buried line without any conduit I was at a loss for how to fix it. I mean, how do I splice a wire and then bury it again? It was a conundrum that had me scratching my head. So off to Google I went.

Who knew that there's such a thing as a line current splicing kit that's intended to be buried? Well, here's what I learned. First, buy one of these:

Then do this:

Step-by-Step Guide to Splicing an Outdoor Wire with the Gardner Bender 14-8 Butt Splice Kit

Materials Needed:

• Gardner Bender 14-8 Butt Splice Black kit
• Wire cutters/strippers
• Utility knife
• Heat gun or lighter
• Electrical tape
• Waterproof silicone sealant (optional)

Steps:

1. Turn Off Power:

Ensure the power to the landscape light or the line current wire you are working on is turned off at the breaker box.

2. Locate and Expose the Damaged Wire:

Use a utility knife to carefully remove the soil around the damaged area of the wire. Make sure you have enough room to work comfortably.

3. Cut and Strip the Wires:

Use wire cutters to remove the damaged section of the wire.

Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation off the ends of the wires you need to splice.

4. Prepare the Butt Splice:

Take the butt splice connector from the Gardner Bender kit and ensure it is the correct size for your wires.

5. Insert the Wires:

Insert one stripped wire end into one side of the butt splice connector.

Use a crimping tool to crimp the connector onto the wire securely.

Repeat this process for the other wire on the opposite side of the connector.

6. Crimp the Connection:

Make sure both wires are securely crimped into the butt splice connector. Tug gently on the wires to ensure they are firmly attached.

7. Seal the Connection:

Slide the heat shrink tubing from the kit over the splice connection.

Use a heat gun or lighter to evenly heat the tubing until it shrinks tightly around the connection. This helps to insulate and protect the splice from moisture.

8. Apply Electrical Tape:

Wrap electrical tape around the entire splice area for extra protection. Ensure that the tape overlaps and covers the ends of the heat shrink tubing.

9. Optional: Apply Waterproof Silicone Sealant:

For added waterproofing, you can apply a layer of waterproof silicone sealant over the taped area. Allow it to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.

10. Bury the Wire:

Once the sealant is dry, carefully re-bury the wire in the soil. Make sure it is well protected and not at risk of being damaged again.

11. Turn On Power:

Turn the power back on at the breaker box and test the landscape light to ensure the splice is working correctly.

Tips:

Use Quality Tools: Ensure you have a good-quality wire stripper and crimper to make the job easier and more secure.

Check for Damage: Before you bury the wire, double-check that the splice is secure and there are no exposed wires.

Regular Inspections: Periodically check the spliced area to ensure it remains in good condition, especially after heavy rains or extreme weather conditions.

Good luck!